NEW ROUTES

Hi everyone, Nathan here.. It's been a while since my last blog - seems as though time is the one thing I can't wrangle these days!

I hope all my NCC friends are doing great, and everyone is training hard for the start of the new climbing season; I have been busy feverishly setting new routes and boulder problems up on wall 3-6.

On 3, I set a crazy, acrobatic-style climb named "Sugar Skull" - it's rated a 5.11. The first moves are swinging with reach-y Heel Hooks, and then it leads up to a huge Dyno from one wall to another! It took a few times for Nico and I to stick it, but we sent it after all! :)

A new dear friend of mine, AH, has taped a solid 5.8 on 3, I would most definitely recommend it and I look forward to having her tape more routes soon!!

Next to AH's new 5.8 route is a jump-start V4 boulder problem that I set (yellow tape), it's only 3 moves but they are solid.

On wall 4, I cleaned two more of Prophet's routes, they are both 11's and are definitely classics.

I set two new routes today, one on wall 4 and one on 5. The route on 4 is a 10+ (skull and crossbones tape) it's a crimpy good time!

The last one I worked on today is a 11- ( polka-dot tape), with two traverses on it. The first traverse goes from left to right on the bottom under-hang, then the second goes from right to left on the upper under- hang. It will most definitely get your heart racing!!

Speaking of traverses, I also set a new wicked-hard traverse named "Chipmunk Shoes". It starts on wall 1 and ends in the cave. If you're looking for a new traverse challenge and you have already whooped mine and Nico's crazy long traverse named "Hot Streak", then "Chipmunk Shoes" is a massive challenge!! Slops, side-pulls, under-hanging....it's madness only a true Rock Punk can appreciate.

Please give them a shot and come back and tell me what you think. Until then, enjoy!

Peace everyone...

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Bouldering

It makes me very happy to write about my favorite form of climbing...bouldering!

Now don't get me wrong, I love a hard sport climb as much as the next crazy person (and I'm a huge sucker for taking massive falls!), who can mistake the intoxicating feeling of your heart racing as you skip a bolt or two... but nothing gets my heart - and mind - racing faster then getting past the no fall zone on a highball boulder problem, especially one with a nasty landing.

Climbing wicked hard problems twenty... forty feet off the ground with no ropes may seem crazy to most people, but oddly enough, this is where I feel most relaxed! Some of my largest climbing goals were boulder problems and I'm eagerly looking forward to sending all my other major projects.

Trying to fulfill this huge addiction of mine has taken me all over the country on a desperate search for That One particular boulder problem, The One that my climbing partner and I will talk about for months, if not years, with the same reverence that a mother might use when gushing about a newborn child. I hold very strong memories of all my most favorite boulder problems; my goal is to bring my impression of them to the Nevada Climb Center.

So if you're looking for some killer boulder problems, I have set many on the boulder and on the X-Wall. From V3's on up to a few V9's, and, of course, I will always be adding new ones!

Start a new project today!!! I would love to hear what you think! :)
In this photo is Josh, working on Kfeds boulder problem "The Duke."

Peace everyone,
Nathan

The art of setting.

To set a new route is not always about being a good climber, you need to have an idea, a vision, and you have to be able to realize it. This is where I have become completely addicted to setting. So many ideas, so many projects in my mind, all trying to breakout. The problem is... I tend to take a long time setting a route, sometimes up to 4 hours. I plan it out like an architect would a house, or a grand building. Each new section has to complement the last, the flow has to be solid from the start to the finish or the whole structure falls apart. I like setting volume routes, giving each person options in their motions or beta. To me, climbing an indoor route is an act of creation, to repeat a climb is to meet the routes creator, to listen to his story, to feel his strength or weakness. It means to force yourself to understand a world, to participate in it's founding and ultimately through your ascent, to become part of that history. There are many ways to climb a route, but truly, the only way should be your way.

I set a new route today on wall 2. It's named 'For Old Warriors' 5.11-
give it a try and please come back and tell me what you think:)

Peace everyone,
-Nathan

Silver Surfer

Hello everyone...Nathan here!
I went into the gym on this rainy day to clean and slap some new tape up on Prophets killer route named Silver Surfer. If you haven't gotten a chance to climb this route I highly recommend it! I asked Prophet what he felt the rate was and he said a 5.11+. I feel like the crux is pushing more on the 12 side but once you make it past the crux the end is smooth!
Peace everyone and I hope you all enjoy the new routes.

-Nathan

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